Tuscany's Winning Wines

Italy’s celebrated region delivers excellent wines for every budget from a string of outstanding vintages
James Suckling
Issue: October 31, 2009
For a modern winemaker, the weight of tradition must be especially heavy when one of your ancestors is the legendary Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the man who invented the method for making what may be Italy's most popular wine, Chianti.

In 1872, Baron Ricasoli wrote a treatise on how to make the best wines in his vineyard area, located between Florence and Siena. He advocated, among other things, adding white grapes to the fermenting vats of Sangiovese and blending in other local varieties to make a more attractive and more drinkable red.

The formula for making the best Chianti has changed over the years, with a higher percentage of Sangiovese and little or no use of white grapes, while some international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are now commonly added. Yet the core character of the wine remains the same, a fresh, fruity and thoroughly enjoyable red. And today, nearly 140 years later, the current Baron Ricasoli, Francesco, is still making excellent, even world-class, wine at his estate in the hills of Chianti Classico. Ricasoli's Chiantis remain beautifully drinkable, but they are also bold, powerful wines of great finesse and length. The 2006 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio (96 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale) was one of the best wines I reviewed this past year at my office in Tuscany. It may be one of the greatest Chianti Classicos ever produced. And its suggested retail price of (US)$54 makes it an extraordinary value. Delivering great wines at affordable prices is one of Tuscany's strengths.

"Wine has to be of serious quality, and the price also has to be reasonable," says Ricasoli. "Wine has to be good to drink. It needs to improve with age, but that doesn't have to be a religion. The incredible thing about my ancestor was that he was way ahead of his time. Our family's winery was always a point of reference."
...Pick up the Oct. 31, 2009 issue to read the rest of the article

Some selected scores for vintages currently available:

Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 2005 (BC/AB)

92 Points "Dense and rich, with plum, berry and well-integrated oak character. Full-bodied, round and silky, with good balance and a long, tarry mineral finish. A pleasure to drink. Layered and structured. Best after 2010." –JS  (Oct. 31, 2008)

Chianti Classico Brolio 2007 (BC/AB and in MB soon)

90 Points "Rich aromas of ripe plum, berries, fresh herbs and mineral lead to a full-bodied palate, with plenty of fruit and well-integrated tannins. The finish is long and measured. Delicious. Drink now."–JS  (Oct. 31, 2009)

Chianti Classico Brolio 2006 (BC/AB/SK)

90 Points "Dark-colored, with a meat, berry and dark chocolate undertone. Full-bodied, with a silky texture and lots of fruit. Long and rich. Almost decadent. Drink now through 2012. 37,500 cases made." –JS  (Sep 30, 2008)